Let's stay in southern Iceland, near the Katla volcano – a place that has always fascinated me. During a road trip with a group in 2019, I discovered the extraordinary Þakgil (Thakgil) campsite. We arrived late at night, and it wasn't until I stepped out of my tent the next morning that I could fully take in its beauty. A flat valley surrounded by moss-covered hills lay before me, like something from a fairytale. I wrote about it shortly after returning from that trip. The place left such a lasting impression that I returned during last year's summer vacation - and I know it won't be our last meeting.
Photo taken at the Thakgil campsite in August 2019.
That second visit was short again and left me even more longing than the first. Due to prior arrangements with my travel companion, there was no chance for any trekking, even though there was plenty of trails offering unforgettable experiences. Luckily, I now live in Iceland, and another holiday under Katla is within reach.
The road to the campsite.
It was a bit challenging, and a 4x4 was useful, but I also saw a few regular cars that managed to make it there. The landscapes along the way more than made up for the effort. It was impossible to drive the route without stopping to admire the views.
On the way to the campsite, we are right below the Katla volcano, which is covered by a massive glacier. In the event of an eruption, huge amounts of ice melt, and water collects beneath the glacier. When it finally breaks free, it causes a glacial flood (in Icelandic, jökulhlaup). The main flow of water moves across the vast Mýrdalssandur outwash plain, along which the road runs.
The plain was formed as a result of glacial floods and stretches all the way to the ocean, creating a landscape that is both harsh and beautiful at the same time. Countless winding glacial rivers meander through the valley, constantly changing their courses.
It is a desert dominated by the black volcanic sediments and the bright green of the moss.
The last major eruption occurred in 1918, and based on the statistics, the next one could be just around the corner. However, it’s important to remember that even increased geothermal activity can cause a flood beneath the glacier – and this happens quite often. The most recent one occurred shortly before my visit (in July 2024), damaging a section of the national Route 1. Knowing all this, a trip to the Þakgil campsite takes on a whole new dimension.
The best viewpoint on the road
...and one of the best I've ever seen. As I mentioned, it’s impossible to drive the road leading to the campsite without stopping. Even if someone is in a hurry, they should stop at least once – at a spot where an unobstructed view opens up, showing a vast stretch of the Mýrdalssandur plain.
This is the path the floodwaters will follow if Katla fully awakens.
A simple turn is enough to see the ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull glacier covering the volcano.
At the viewpoint, you'll find informational signs about the Katla Geopark. It's a vast protected area that includes unique volcanic and glacial landscapes. Within it, you'll find attractions such as the Sólheimajökull glacier I described in my previous post, the black sand beach of Reynisfjara, and the waterfalls of Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. Also, the Þakgil canyon and the campsite of the same name, located at its entrance.
The campsite area
It can only be reached through a narrow passage along the river. It is surrounded by mountains and has a perfectly flat surface, giving it a somewhat surreal feeling.
The atmosphere of this place is extraordinary. The sense of complete isolation from the world, combined with the proximity of Katla, made me keep glancing at the mouth of the gorge, expecting to see some strange creatures – or at least the Army of the Dead straight out of the LOTR ;)
The kitchen and dining area are located in a small cave lit by candles.
The view from the kitchen of the campsite.
You know what I find curious? I always take so few pictures at this campsite. It's like I completely forget about it, getting lost in the fairytale-like reality.
I would really love to come back here next summer for at least a few days. This time, I plan to go for a proper trek and explore the area. Third time’s the charm!
